Late flower mold window: the numbers that matter
We are entering the danger zone out here in the PNW and I want to share what has saved my runs the last few years. Once you hit weeks 5 and 6 of flower, your buds are dense enough that internal moistu
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We are entering the danger zone out here in the PNW and I want to share what has saved my runs the last few years. Once you hit weeks 5 and 6 of flower, your buds are dense enough that internal moistu
We are deep into the window where botrytis kills outdoor runs. For anyone in a wet climate, here is what i target in the last three to four weeks of flower: daytime RH below 50%, nighttime below 60%.
We are entering the danger zone out here in the PNW. Nights are dropping, morning dew is sitting on buds longer, and dense late-flower colas are basically sponges. If you are not thinking about mold r
We're getting into the window where mold kills crops out here in the PNW, so I want to share what's kept me clean through some genuinely wet Septembers. The target I chase is 45-50% RH during lights o
If you are running outdoor in the PNW or anywhere with wet falls, the window between week 6 and harvest is where mold wins. Botrytis does not wait for you to notice it. By the time you see the grey fu
We're at the point in the season where your buds are stacking up and also at their most vulnerable. Botrytis and powdery mildew don't need much invitation this time of year, especially if you're anywh
Getting into the last two to three weeks of flower and your buds are swelling up nicely, this is exactly when PNW weather wants to kill everything you worked for. Nights are getting cooler, dew points
I already found a baby worm gently crawling across the Maui Pineapple Chunk stigmas and a baby grasshopper hiding upside down under some fans leaves on the China Yunnan. In the early morning when the
If you're pushing into week 6-7 of flower outdoors and you live anywhere with fall moisture, this is the window where you lose a crop. Botrytis doesn't need much. Once nights drop into the 50s and mor
We're getting into the danger window out here in the PNW. Once your plants are 4-6 weeks into flower, the buds are dense enough that moisture gets trapped inside the canopy and never leaves. That's wh
Once you hit week 6 of flower outdoors, your margin for error on humidity gets razor thin. I shoot for 45-50% RH during the day and I get nervous any time it climbs past 55% at night. In the PNW that
We're getting into the window where bud rot can take a whole plant in 48 hours out here in the PNW. I've lost harvests to it and I've also learned to stop it cold. The difference usually comes down to
If you're pushing into week 6-8 of flower out here in the northwest, your biggest threat isn't bugs or deficiencies anymore. It's the wet air rolling in off the coast every night. Botrytis doesn't ask
Being around growers for the last 45 years and nobody I know has ever used it, indoors or outdoors. Actually, I was told to never use it because its poison. Neem Oil is a neurotoxin, organic yes, but
Found tiny slender insects on my leaves leaving silver/bronze streaks. Pretty sure these are thrips. Best organic treatment for flower stage?
My lower leaves are getting brown circular spots with yellow rings around them. This is happening mostly on the lower canopy. Is this septoria? How do I treat it organically?
Found caterpillar frass (droppings) inside my buds and some bore holes. These things are eating my flowers from the inside! How do I stop them without ruining my buds?
Warning post: if you see tiny white/green bugs in your soil, you might have root aphids. They're worse than spider mites. Here's how I identified and dealt with them.
Had a spider mite outbreak last month and beat them without any synthetic pesticides. Here's what worked: **Week 1: Aggressive response** - Sprayed neem oil solution every 3 days (1 tbsp neem + 1 tsp
Prevention is better than cure. Here's the IPM (Integrated Pest Management) schedule I follow every grow. Haven't had a serious pest problem in 3 years.